Build storage sheds with steel framing

Build your own storage shed! Their price has gone beyond my price range, so I made my own. If you want steel framing then there are some things you should consider. First, you will need a way to cut and track the steel roots. I used a chop saw made to cut steel. If you are using mild gauge steel, you can cut it with a good pair of aviation pieces. Next, you need to have a place to keep your building that is out of the way. You need to have an idea of ​​how big the shed will be to meet your needs. You should sit down and take a rough picture of what you want. It doesn’t have to be a blueprint. Will make a simple drawing. This is because you can figure out how much to buy to make it. Basic knowledge of framing is required, but you can find books on the subject at these large retail building supply stores. It’s pretty simple, though.

Next, you need to decide what kind of roof you want. If you want a roof covered with plywood, you need to strengthen the walls a little, because this type of roof is heavier. If you go with a steel panel roof, the load on the walls is reduced and they can be made with thin gauge steel product (cheaper). Next, you have to choose the style of the door. I made my own with just one hole. The door was wide and the shed was small, so it worked for me. You are not building a house, so don’t go here. The last thing to consider is what type of floor you want in the building. There are two main options. Many people prefer a solid concrete pad. I built my own ground floor system. If you are going to store a rebel tractor like an ATV or other heavy rolling object, you should probably use a concrete slab. If you choose the above ground system, place it on blocks or some other way to support the floor. I put concrete corner pads to maintain my building. Okay, let’s get started.

Build your floor support system first. If you want a concrete pad, insert it now. Once it’s set for at least a full day, you can start making it. When I put the corner pads in my building, I had to make a floor system on top of it. Simple, really. Steel framing comes in two basic styles. The metal roots are vertical pieces and the metal track is the horizontal part in which the metal roots fit. I built a stud and track frame that was the size of a shed floor. I put studs every 24 inches in the track. Since it was a floor system, I put double studs on the back. This increased the strength of the floor system. Next, I covered them with 3/4 inch plywood to make a solid floor. At this point, you will be in the same place as the person who chose the concrete slab.

Now that you have the floor, it’s time to build the walls. It’s a good idea to put walls on your floor. Draw the thickness of the metal stud wall around the edge of the floor, keeping in mind where your door will go. Then draw it on the outline of the wall. The size of your door opening should be rough, not the full size of your door. For a basic, four-walled building, two walls should be the entire length of your building. The other two marks will be inside the mark you made on the floor. Once you have these dimensions, you are ready to start building the walls. Start with a wall that has no door. Place one of the horizontal track pieces on the markings you have made for the wall. If it is longer than the floor, cut it to the correct length. Now cut another one of the same size. These are the upper and lower parts of the wall. Place them side by side and make a mark on both pieces every 24 inches starting from the end of the track. These are vertical stud placement locations. Take your studs, vertical pieces and insert them into two pieces of track to complete the wall section. Now screw the fastener and position the studs on either side of the track. It’s easier if you do it on one side, then turn it over and do it on the other side.

When done, take a scrap piece of metal or wood, anything that can be used as a brace, and attach it to one of the vertical roots about two feet below the top of the wall. When you erect it, it will be used to fasten part of the wall. If you have a wooden floor, it is easy to pull the wall into the floor system. If you use a concrete slab floor, you will need a method to attach the wall to the concrete. You can shoot it with a powder activated tool, drive the nail with an impact tool and a hammer, or you can pre-drill holes and use a masonry screw like the “Tapcom” system. Whichever method you use, go ahead and place the wall section up and fasten it tightly. When you see the wall standing, you will begin to feel the success of all your endeavors. Use this passion to help you finish the other three walls. When you come to the part of the wall that has the door, place the studs on either side of the rough hole and place a horizontal header piece of track over the rough hole. Measure the remaining distance to the track above and install the cutdown stud pieces on the door holes in the door header track. Keep a distance of 24 inches in the wall like the rest of the studs. At this point, you need to build a wall and get ready for the next step. Before we move on, I would like to mention the importance of keeping everything level, square, straight and smooth. It is best to check these items with you. Another thing to remember is to always wear protective goggles when working with any power tools, not just that. Wearing gloves is also helpful when handling steel roots and tracks. There are so many types it’s hard to say.

The roof is the next step. Get yourself a ladder and make layout marks on the track pieces of the wall. If your plan calls for a roof with no overhangs, things will get faster. The pieces of stud you make in the truss will be attached to the track where you made the markings. Again, 24 inches at the center will suffice. These trusses are designed to fit your roof design. However you design it, it should add at least one foot to every four foot run. This means that if your shed was eight feet wide, the height at the top of the roof would be at least one foot. Sixteen feet wide building will be two feet and so on. This is because if it snows in your area, your roof will let it fall before it gets too thick and your building collapses. Now let’s talk about making trusses. On your work desk, lay a piece of stud that will extend from wall to wall. It’s under the truss. Find the center and put a straight piece there that will give you the proportions I mentioned earlier. You will drag it to the bottom of the center mark you have created. Now, from the top of it, measure the distance to the end of the stud. It should be the same for both sides. Cut these pieces of root together.

When you finish, you should have a triangle framework with a straight section in the middle. Unless you are building for a long time, this structure will be enough to handle the load of the roof for your shed. Make each of these for the mark you have made on the top of your walls. These trusses will be screwed on the track every 24 inches above. It will be easier to put the first in front and the last behind. This will allow you to spread a wire over the top of the truss. Use it to align the other trusses in a straight line. When you need to lower the truss heads to the top of the wall strip, cut a scrap of stud or track into a 90 degree angle piece that you can pull up to the edge of the truss and to the top of the wall strip. Are To keep it in place Once you have screwed the truss into place, you should put a scrap of stud or track across the truss and lower it temporarily. When you place the permanent cross pieces in place, it keeps the truss tops in place. I used a 7/8 inch heat channel to cross the truss. The hat channel is called because it looks like a hat in cross section. The two flat sides (the edge of the cap) are pulled down every 24 inches below the top of the truss. At the top of the cap is a flat area where you will drop the roof panel down to the heat channel.

Now, in the review, you will have a hat channel under each truss and every 24 inches from the top of the truss to the bottom. That way, when you lay the roof panel on this framework, you can lower it every 24 inches, creating a very strong steel roof that is not too heavy. At this point, when you have completed the installation of the roof panels, it will become clear that you need something to cover the top of your roof. This will be a product called Ridge Cap. This is bad for the joining area between the roof panels. At this point you should have a shed roof over your building. Here are some details to talk about. If you want an overhanging ceiling, calculate how far you want it to go and measure up to the top of your truss. This will be a measure of how long your panel will last. Place the cut part of your panel on top. It will be hidden by the ridge cap. If you want a flush roof, the measurements will be from the edge of the truss at the top of the wall to the top of the roof. If you want a flush roof, be sure to calculate the thickness of the cap channel and steel panel to cover the wall. Your ceiling should be raised at least 1/4 inch from this point.

Now we are ready to start covering the walls. Mark 24 inches on all four corners from top to bottom of your wall. Use this mark to place a heat channel 24 inches horizontally around your building. If you plan carefully, the 26-inch wide steel panel will wrap around the corner of your building. Place half on one side and wrap around the corner on the other. I did my job this way because I couldn’t find a dealer who had the corner trim pieces. At the very least, it works well and when you wrap the panels around the corners, there are no draft corners. When you install the panels, pull them on the installed heat channels every 24 inches. This increases the strength of the walls. Continue wrapping the panels around until you reach the door. There you can cut the panel to fit and glue it to another panel to complete the building wrap. The infrastructure is complete. All that remains to be done is to install some cutting pieces around your door and your new building. The roof is a 3 inch trim piece designed for polishing. Which will work well to close the gap between the wall panels and the ceiling panels.

To install them, screw the bottom of your roof panels to the side you are carving. Slide the trim piece under the roof panel and over the wall panel. Reinstall the removed patch. When you wrap it around the building, it will rain in your building and you will be ready to drive the tractor.

A final thought and some information. Please do not work alone. You can easily get injured if any part of the wall breaks and falls on you. Also, it’s easier when you have someone to help you get things done. The other thing is that you will need some special tools to do this job. It can be done without most of them, but they make things easier. First, you need to drill with a good screw gun or screw driving tip. Go for the magnetic bit holder that holds the patch tightly. After leaving a lot of patches, I have a lot of bad ideas. You will also find one or two of these Vise-Grip type C-clamps. Use them to hold the studs and track them together on your mark as you collect them. For special cuts, I used a mini grinder to cut the angle of the roof pieces. You will need a good level and square framing size. And one more thing. When you buy patches for framing, get the type that has a drill point on the tip. It saves a lot of push. Always keep safety in mind and then brag to your neighbors!

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